The Autumn/Winter 2012/13 season witnessed Burberry Prorsum, under the creative direction of Christopher Bailey, solidify its position as a powerhouse of British luxury. The menswear show, held in Milan, was a pivotal moment, showcasing a collection that seamlessly blended classic tailoring with a contemporary edge, influencing menswear trends for seasons to come. This article delves deep into the Burberry Prorsum AW12 collection, examining its key pieces, the overall aesthetic, and its lasting impact on the fashion world. We'll specifically focus on the iconic elements, including the oxblood belted wool tweed coat and the velour blazer, while exploring the broader context of the AW12 menswear and womenswear offerings.
Burberry Prorsum: AW12 – A Symphony of Textures and Tradition
The AW12 collection was a masterclass in textural interplay. Bailey, known for his ability to bridge the gap between heritage and modernity, expertly layered fabrics, creating a rich and visually arresting experience. The palette, while rooted in classic autumnal hues, ventured into unexpected territories. Deep reds, rich browns, and earthy greens formed the foundation, punctuated by flashes of vibrant colour – a bold contrast that heightened the overall impact. This wasn't simply a collection of clothes; it was a carefully curated narrative, a sophisticated exploration of British heritage reimagined for the 21st century.
The use of traditional British fabrics was paramount. Wool, cashmere, and tweed were woven into the very fabric of the collection, literally and figuratively. The coats, a cornerstone of the Burberry Prorsum aesthetic, were particularly impressive. The iconic trench coat, a Burberry signature, was reinterpreted in various iterations, showcasing both its enduring versatility and its potential for contemporary reinvention. Alongside these classics, however, were more experimental pieces, suggesting a designer unafraid to push boundaries while honouring tradition. This delicate balance is what truly defined the AW12 collection's success.
Burberry Prorsum Menswear AW12/13: A Modern Take on British Heritage
The Milan menswear show further amplified this theme. The collection moved beyond the purely functional, incorporating elements of both rugged practicality and refined elegance. The silhouettes were sharp and tailored, yet imbued with a relaxed, almost nonchalant ease. This deliberate juxtaposition of formality and informality reflected a shift in menswear trends, towards a more individualistic and less rigidly structured approach to dressing.
The outerwear, as mentioned, was a highlight. Oversized coats, meticulously crafted from luxurious fabrics, were paired with slim-fitting trousers and knitwear. This contrast in proportions created a dynamic and visually interesting silhouette, avoiding the monotony of overly uniform looks. The colour palette for the menswear mirrored the womenswear, emphasizing rich earth tones and punctuated by flashes of brighter colours, creating a sense of cohesion across the entire collection.
The use of checks, a hallmark of Burberry, was subtle yet impactful. Rather than overwhelming the collection, the checks were integrated thoughtfully, often appearing as accents or details, adding a touch of understated elegance. This demonstrated a sophisticated understanding of branding and pattern use, avoiding the pitfalls of over-reliance on signature elements. Instead, the checks served to enhance the overall aesthetic, rather than dictate it.
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